
The use of a key allows you to apply more force to tighten the drill bit. Keyed chucks have been around since the invention of the electric drill. There are two types of chuck: keyed (also called Jacobs) and keyless. If it's not in the trigger, it could be adjusted on the fly – and some manufacturers claim this as a benefit. The control dial may be built into the trigger or another part of the drill body. More powerful models run up to 2,500 or 3,000 rpm. Low-power corded drills usually have a speed range up to 1,000 or 1,500 rpm.

It requires a little more care than a clutch, but you soon get used to it.

Corded drills don't have a clutch setting like you’d find on a cordless, so low speed gives you the control you need. Variable speed is useful when you’re using the drill as a driver. On better models, you will also find variable speed settings. The speed on a basic electric drill is controlled by how much you squeeze the trigger. However, if you're using a 1/2-inch spade bit in wood, you need slower speed. If you have a small drill bit and want to make a 1/16-inch hole in a piece of aluminum, you need high speed. When evaluating the speed of an electric drill, consider that maximum speed is less important than variable speed. A drill’s torque might make a difference if you were choosing between two closely matched drills, but we wouldn't normally consider it to be a deciding factor. Torque almost always relates directly to the amount of power available, but manufacturers don’t always supply torque data. It keeps costs down without adversely affecting performance. The amount of energy available is not a consideration with corded drills – there's no battery to run flat – so the majority use brush motors. The latter is more efficient but also more expensive. When you're looking at cordless drills, much is made of the difference between brush and brushless motors. If you need to make holes in brick or concrete, you'll want an electric drill with six amps or more. If you're putting up shelves in internal drywall, a three-amp model would suffice. The tougher the job you do, the more power you need. At the other end of the scale, general-purpose drills of professional-grade quality are rated at up to nine amps. An entry-level model for light-duty DIY tasks will be rated for around three amps. When you consider the fact that a cordless drill battery will eventually wear out and need to be replaced, it’s easy to see why some people prefer to use an electric drill.īestReviews Home Improvement and DIY Expert Electric drill power AmpsĬorded electric drill power is measured in amps. Many electric drills can be bought for less than the cost of the battery that goes in a cordless drill. That's never a problem with a corded drill. Cordless drills are more ergonomically designed than they once were, but there's still a heavy battery on the end of the grip. In truth, it depends on the size of drill you buy. Opinions are divided as to which is lighter, the cordless or corded drill.

Performance doesn't deteriorate as it does with cordless drills, and torque is usually higher, too. A corded electric drill works anywhere there's a power socket – and it works all day and night if you need it to.

Why buy a corded electric drill?Īlthough cordless drills have made great advances, you're still reliant on a battery when you use one. A small selection of masonry bits is also nice to have. A set of HSS drill bits in various sizes is a good general-purpose purchase.
